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Cooking Dairy

Milk Into Cheese

The Foundations of Natural Cheesemaking Using Traditional Concepts, Tools, and Techniques

by (author) David Asher

Publisher
Chelsea Green Publishing
Initial publish date
Jul 2024
Category
Dairy, Canning & Preserving, Reference, Food Industry, Agriculture & Food, Agribusiness, General, Food Science, Seasonal
  • Hardback

    ISBN
    9781603588874
    Publish Date
    Jul 2024
    List Price
    $99.00

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Description

“Essential reading for anyone wanting to learn all they can about the ways in which humans, and our domesticates, share this world with microbes.”—David Zilber, chef and food scientist; coauthor of The Noma Guide to Fermentation

With recipes for over 80 natural cheeses and complimentary ferments, this groundbreaking, comprehensive book guarantees high-quality results and perfect flavors for every season.

Cheese is milk’s destiny. In Milk Into Cheese, cheesemakers at every scale will learn to produce a broad range of traditional cheeses, entirely naturally. Experienced educator, activist, and celebrated natural cheesemaker David Asher introduces the reader to the cultures and practices of cheesemakers, the role our agricultural practices play in making cheese, the biological evolution of cheese, and the transformation of milk into cheese through fermentation.

A perfect companion to David’s The Art of Natural Cheesemaking, Milk Into Cheese expands the cheesemaker’s tool kit through an exploration of cheesemaking styles from around the world. These natural cheesemaking processes are made simple, in contrast to the complicated, controversial, and confusing world of industrial cheesemaking, with its reliance on freeze-dried cultures, chemical additives, and ever-expanding use of expensive technology.

Milk Into Cheese also celebrates the world’s most delicious seasonal hand-made cheeses, including alpine, blue, and milled cheeses. Through gorgeous photography and detailed recipes, David prepares the reader for their own journey into traditional natural cheesemaking. He also shares simple recipes for fermented foods that complement and help us understand cheesemaking better, including pickles, sourdough bread, butter, and salami.

For home, small-scale, and larger-scale cheesemakers, Milk Into Cheese delivers a sophisticated look at the biological science that informs—and the ecological principles that guide—natural cheesemaking.

"An inspired how-to guide for the greatest of culinary transformations.”—Dan Barber, chef, Blue Hill

“In detail and with great passion [Asher explains] the hows and whys of making cheese in traditional and simple ways, based on extensive and broad experience with the incredibly varied ways in which people have, do, and can work with milk.”—Sandor Ellix Katz, fermentation revivalist; author of The Art of Fermentation and other fermentation bestsellers

About the author

David Asher is a natural cheesemaker, bringing the traditions of dairying, fermentation, and coagulation back into this age-old craft. A former farmer and goatherd from the west coast of Canada, David now travels widely, sharing a very old but also very new approach to cheese production with his Black Sheep School of Cheesemaking. Through teaching about the use of in-house starter cultures and natural rennet from calves and kids, David helps cheesemakers around the world reclaim their traditional cheeses. He also explores the connections between all fermented foods and the important role of small-scale and traditional food production in our modern world.

David Asher's profile page

Editorial Reviews

“David’s first book was life-changing for me, so much so that his methods are at the center of our restaurant’s cheesemaking program. As I pore through the pages of this book, the inspiration is abundant. He has leveled up again, delving deeper into natural cheesemaking methods and answering any niggling questions that may be had. As we seek to better understand microbiology and its importance to our own health, this book is leaving a legacy that will become evident in years to come. Set to become a classic of our time.”

—Rodney Dunn, cofounder, The Agrarian Kitchen

“In this new book by David Asher, he has grasped the essence of milk in its truest form. His multifaceted approach blends techniques, recipes, and insights to empower seasoned cheesemakers and novices to truly produce a cheese that represents their region. The dairy industry as we know it has moved behind closed doors into sanitary, over-hygienic spaces. Through David’s research, travels, and meetings with fellow cheesemakers, he has opened the eyes of the world to real, authentic cheesemaking practices, lifting the veil between farms, animals, and cheesemakers and empowering us all not to be afraid of milk. He encourages us to take a real interest in the farm, the pasture, the cultures, and the rennet so that we can make a cheese that is absolutely delicious and unique to us. The world of microbes can be quite daunting to some. However, this book offers a sense of comfort and ease and facilitates an in-depth relationship between cheesemaker and microbes to create the truest and fullest expression of their style, animals, and landscape.”

—Maria van Zyl, Cream of the Crop Micro Dairy

“David Asher has created the world’s most comprehensive and empowering guide to natural cheesemaking. Through the history, science, and cultural nuances of making cheese, he illustrates how communities around the world developed the hundreds of different cheeses that we love today. He dives into the nuts and bolts of natural cheesemaking and teaches the reader how to replicate these processes so that they can make many of these cheeses, using natural processes, in their own home kitchens. This book is a must read for cheesemakers, cheese lovers, and anyone looking to reconnect with the most basic, foundational human food.”

—Dr. Bill Schindler, author of Eat Like a Human

“To be a great cheesemaker, one has to understand and respect the milk, and David’s book provides the key to both. Milk Into Cheese is not just a deep dive into natural cheesemaking techniques but also the three key pillars—milk, cultures, and rennet. The book has an exhaustive list of cheeses and methods to make them, but before you get there, the preceding chapters help you understand a cheese, its provenance, and what makes it unique. For a cheesemaker, it’s probably the only book you’ll ever need to make better cheese.”

—Namrata Sundaresan, cheesemaker

“David’s influence on not only my own cheesemaking journey but that of countless others in Australia and around the world is becoming more and more evident. His first book, The Art of Natural Cheesemaking, can now be found dog-eared and worn in many restaurant and home kitchens, with chefs, home cooks, and even established cheesemakers becoming more passionate about cheesemaking and the natural techniques that he is so dedicated to sharing and teaching.”

—Colin Wood, cheesemaker, Goldstreet Dairy

“Grounded in years of experimentation, exploration, and collaboration with a global community of fermenters, Milk Into Cheese is the culmination of David Asher’s paradigm-shifting approach to cheesemaking. With immense philosophical and ethical depth, the contents are thought-provoking and increasingly relevant. This tome serves as an ideal starting point for those beginning to dabble in cheese, or as a breath of fresh air for experienced makers.”

—Trevor Warmedahl, Milk Trekker

“David Asher’s new book is an extraordinary gift for a practicing cheesemaker. This time, he delves into not only working with raw milk technology but also the deeper philosophical aspects of preparing dairy products through the lens of history and personal experience. Oh, how I wish I had this book in my hands ten years ago when I started making cheese. Many mistakes could have been avoided. It is a true guide that teaches not how to make cheese, but what cheesemaking is from the inside, why different processes occur during its ripening, and how to alter this process depending on external conditions. Numerous cheese recipes follow a thorough analysis of the essence of milk and the cheesemaking process from raw milk, as well as the affinage of cheese and its storage, which is undoubtedly unique. This book is the quintessence of a master’s experience and a textbook for the cheesemaker.”

—Olha Ternytska, cheesemaker and affineur

“An indispensable book for understanding natural cheesemaking and putting it into practice in a simpler, safer, small-scale, sustainable way, referencing traditional practices and valuing the fresh milk, the cultures, the rennet, and the skill of the cheesemaker himself. It creates a new way of understanding the relationship between milk and cheese, building faith in milk’s natural ability to make all styles of cheese anywhere and in all cultural circumstances.”

—Malen Sarasua, director and researcher, Dairy Centre

“David Asher has continued to deepen his understanding of cheese in the years since The Art of Natural Cheesemaking was published. His new book, Milk Into Cheese, is no less than a cheesemaking textbook, with thorough treatment of basics such as the biochemistry of milk and its transformations, rennets and other coagulants, salting, microbial development, aging environments and protocols, tools, and many other variables. These sections are followed by a survey of cheese styles, detailing methods and parameters for each. David explains in detail and with great passion the hows and whys of making cheese in traditional and simple ways, based on extensive and broad experience with the incredibly varied ways in which people have, do, and can work with milk.”

—Sandor Ellix Katz, fermentation revivalist; author of The Art of Fermentation and other fermentation bestsellers

“A book that’s the most complete guide to making and maturing real cheese. A book that defends the traditional ways and justifies the use of raw milk and natural starters for any cheesemaker, commercial or not. If you are a cheesemaker, I guarantee this book will leave you with the desire to test new cheeses and modify techniques to see the different results.”

—Martín Rosberg, cheesemaker

“In this book, David Asher answers the questions I have been wondering and the ones I hadn’t yet thought to wonder. It is a deep dive into everything interesting and extraordinary about natural cheesemaking and milk.”

—Robyn Jackson, owner, Cheese From Scratch

“The biological, historical, and ecological principles of good cheesemaking are as much a wonder as the cheese itself. It’s all connected, and it’s all here in Milk Into Cheese. An inspired how-to guide for the greatest of culinary transformations.”

—Dan Barber, chef, Blue Hill

“David Asher’s Milk Into Cheese is a revolutionary homage to the art of traditional cheesemaking. Through engaging prose, Asher leads us on a journey back to natural and sustainable methods, proving himself a master at blending tradition with innovation. A treasure for those seeking to rediscover authenticity and joy in cheesemaking.”

—Samuel Lai, Sinnos Formaggi

Milk Into Cheese is an exhilarating journey that challenges us to reimagine the potential of dairy in our lives. Asher’s dynamic exploration not only unveils the transformative power of cheesemaking but also provides practical recipes for enthusiasts and professional producers eager to adopt natural cheesemaking processes. Delving deeply into global traditions, this book takes readers on an electrifying voyage, engaging with diverse communities and uncovering the secrets of cheesemaking from around the world. Asher shows us the importance of natural cheesemaking as a practice that resists over-commercialization, celebrating the beauty of traditional methods and minimal intervention. From the captivating narrative to the wealth of insights, Milk Into Cheese is a must-read for anyone passionate about food, culture, and the art of cheesemaking.”

—Carlos Yescas, cheese scholar

Milk Into Cheese is a near-encyclopedic deep dive into the world of fermented dairy. Having traveled the world, David Asher’s intimate and diverse first-hand knowledge of cheesemaking (and fermentation in general) makes the stories, explanations, and recipes within this book feel less like the work of a cookbook author and more like that of an insatiably curious natural philosopher. This book will stand alongside works like Katz’s The Art of Fermentation and Steinkraus’s Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods as essential reading for anyone wanting to learn all they can about the ways in which humans, and our domesticates, share this world with microbes.”

—David Zilber, chef and food scientist; coauthor of The Noma Guide to Fermentation

“An incomparable summary of cheese knowledge, containing a lot of different aspects and a very practical and open-minded approach to the subject of milk. Definitely a must-have educational tool for any cheesemaker. Thank you for this gift to the world of cheese.”

—Martin Grüner, Goas Dairy & Farm Shop

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